Itineraries··3 min

Marrakesh to the dunes: Morocco in a week

A week is enough to cross the Atlas mountains, reach the edge of the Sahara, and come back a different way. The mountains are the part people underestimate.

Camels resting on rippled sand in low desert light
Photo by Carlos Leret on Unsplash

The standard Moroccan week is a loop: start in Marrakesh, cross the High Atlas, work through the valleys and gorges on the far side, reach the desert, and return by a different road. It's popular because the geography cooperates — you get a city, a mountain range, a river-oasis landscape and sand dunes inside a few days' driving.

Marrakesh — two days, and one of them slowly

The old walled medina is the reason to be here: a dense, disorienting warren of lanes, souks and courtyards, opening periodically into quiet garden riads that give no hint from the street of what's behind the door.

The main square is the theatrical centre and transforms completely between afternoon and evening. It is also intensely commercial and can be overwhelming on a first encounter; most people find it far more enjoyable on day two than on day one, once the initial sensory hit has passed.

Give the medina an unstructured half-day with no destination. Getting mildly lost in it is the experience, and the lanes are small enough that you resurface eventually.

Crossing the Atlas — a driving day worth having

The road over the High Atlas climbs through switchbacks to a high pass, and the landscape shifts from irrigated green to bare rock and back. On the far side you're in a different country visually — earthen kasbah architecture, palm-filled river valleys cutting through arid ground.

This is a full driving day and shouldn't be treated as a transfer to be minimised. The views from the pass and the villages clinging to the slopes are among the better things on the trip.

The valleys and gorges — two days

Beyond the mountains the route follows river valleys lined with palm groves and fortified earthen settlements, several of which are extraordinarily photogenic and have consequently appeared in a great many films.

Two gorges cut deep into the rock here, with roads running along their floors between vertical walls. They make a natural overnight stop and break the driving usefully.

The desert — one or two nights

The dune fields at the edge of the Sahara are reached at the far end of the loop. The standard experience is to travel out to a camp among the dunes and stay overnight.

What makes it worth doing is not the dunes in daylight — impressive as they are — but the two ends of the day. The low sun does remarkable things to rippled sand, and the night sky, with no settlement for a long way in any direction, is as dark as most people ever see.

Be clear-eyed about the format: this is a well-established route and the camps are a developed industry. That doesn't diminish the landscape, but it isn't a solitary expedition.

Coming back a different way

The return can loop north through a different set of valleys rather than retracing the outbound road, which is what turns the trip from an out-and-back into a circuit. It adds variety at no extra time cost.

Practical shape

Seven days divides roughly as: two in Marrakesh, one crossing, two in the valleys, one or two at the desert, one returning. It's a driving-heavy week, and that's the honest trade — the distances are real.

If you'd rather not drive it yourself, the route is very commonly done with a driver, which is worth considering given the mountain roads and the length of the days.

The leave maths

Seven days end to end, bracketed by two weekends, is five working days for a week that includes a mountain range and a desert. That ratio is why this loop keeps its popularity.